Since starting my first wine course over 25 years ago, and tasting wine qualitatively almost every day, I have come across literally thousands of different styles, flavours, weights and prices of wine. Wine should be judged by the juice in the glass, and nothing else. Nonetheless, as I trawl though Decanter magazine and read of expensive auction houses selling bottles of wine, I often wonder what those outside of the industry make of the prices, as some iconic bottles of wine have sold for €300,000 to €500,000. A region that consistently pops up in the top ten most expensive bottles is the long-established, and highly reputable region, of Bordeaux. In 2010 a bottle of 1947 Cheval Blanc was sold at an auction, hosted by Christies in Geneva, for $304,375 (€274,120). How could a bottle of wine cost hundreds of thousands? Are the producers in Bordeaux using gold in their wines to justify exorbitant prices like this? How could the wine in the bottle equate to this value, and, more to the point, who is actually spending money on wine like this? Well, let’s take a little journey into this fascinating region to get some perspective on this phenomenon.
Bordeaux is a city and port, and is the capital of the Gironde region, which straddles the Bay of Biscay. It lies at a 45-degree latitude (ideal for vine growing), at the confluence of the Garonne river in with the Dordogne, in a sandy plain east of the wine-growing district of Médoc. The dry soils of Médoc attracted settlement as early as the Bronze Age, and since Roman times, Bordeaux has been a thriving town and port, with long established connections with both the British and Spanish in particular. In 1152, Eleanor, the Duchess of Aquitaine (ex-wife of King Louis the VII of France), marred Henri Plantagenet, who later became the King of England. So, Bordeaux fell under British rule for over three centuries. At this time the city flourished and grew in both size and reputation. The ever-growing wine trade was infinitely fuelled by the port-location of the region. The winemakers were close to the Garonne River, their primary link to the rest of the world, which resulted in widespread commercial success — especially to wealthy markets like England and the United States. The city has had a long and prosperous reputation, with only a peppering of tumultuous times experienced. Therefore, this wine region has long held its position as one of the wealthiest world-wide. This has been coupled with both strict wine laws and heavy investment, and has resulted in a highly protected and rigid brand name that exudes quality, wealth and nobility.
Bordeaux and its climate are dominated by its rivers and ocean. The left bank is the Atlantic Ocean side of the rivers Gironde and Garonnne, and the right bank is to the north of the Dordogne river. The area in between the rivers is known as Entre Deux Mers — which literally means ‘between two seas’ in French. Within this 120,000-hectare region there are over ten different regions, with 57 smaller sub-regions and, startlingly, over 10,000 wine producers. This staggering number surpasses the whole of North America in terms of the volume of wine producers. It is a melting pot of both tiny, garage producers and gargantuan conglomerate producers, and everything in between.
Its ideal latitude of 45 degrees, is the first advantage of its local climate. To add to this, the local soils are a tapestry of dense mineral rich and well-draining soils, that are necessary for top quality vine growing. The irregular weather patterns are the elevating feature of this region. Vine growers are constantly challenged by viscous frosts in the spring, violent hailstorms that wipe berries straight form the vine, and excessive rainfalls that are badly timed and an absolute menace. However, when the conditions are favourable, the quality that is achieved in the grapes is literally perfect. So, Bordeaux is truly known as the region where vintages can make or break you. The skill of a vine grower is tested to a penultimate level. It is literally survival of the fittest in terms of their combat with Mother Nature, and when they succeed, they have the ability to produce grapes that will make wines that can age for 50-80 years, and possibly beyond.
The French have been quite savvy in protecting one of their prime wine growing regions. From very early on, strict wine laws have been instilled. Some may argue these laws are archaic and not in keeping with modern standards, but nonetheless, laws like this have helped the region extract high quality, and maintain a prestigious global reputation for centuries. Like any other region in France, Bordeaux wines are classified and regulated under the traditional AOC system, which defines the geographic boundaries, grape varieties, winemaking practices, and quality standards for each appellation within the region. Labels must comply with strict regulations regarding the information they provide, including the appellation, vintage, alcohol content, and producer’s name. Rules also apply to the use of terms such as ‘Grand Cru’, ‘Premier Cru’, and ‘Château’, and have very specific meanings in Bordeaux. However, the misnomer lies in the fact that some regulations were created in the 1800’s, and have not changed since.
Bordeaux is famous for its 1855 classification, which ranks these wines based on their reputation and quality into a five-tier system. These are called the first growth, second growth, third growth and so on. It was established for the Exposition Universelle de Paris in 1855, and it remains one of the most famous and influential wine classifications in the world. It is a significant part of Bordeaux’s winemaking history and continues to be a reference point for Bordeaux wine producers, collectors, and consumers. Unfortunately, the original judgements have never changed to this day. And while the classification provides a general indication of the perceived quality and prestige of Bordeaux wines, it does not guarantee the quality of every bottle produced by a classified château. Again, the region is bound deeply by traditions and histories, rather than a dynamic and ever evolving classification system that respects all encompassing.
Notwithstanding, this region is not one to be left behind. In the 90’s the New World fruit-driven blockbuster wines dominated the market. Leaner, fresher French wines were left in the dust. The modern palate was seeking a more fruit driven offering to pair with their mid-week meals. So, the sales of Bordeaux wines really suffered as a result, and a new-sub region in 2009 was categorised. This is called ‘Cotes du Bordeaux’, and really it is now the epicentre of modern Bordeaux winemaking. It is a region on the rise, with leading viticultural and innovative vinicultural, and is located on the periphery of the right bank. Vines are planted on sunnier slopes with a sheltered aspect from the ocean. It is predominantly known for its great-value and superb quality modern, fruit-forward red blends. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, cover 95% of the land under vine.
It is home to many younger winemakers who, unincumbered by centuries of tradition, are willing to try something a little different.
These fruit-forward reds are made using shorter maceration periods and gentler extraction methods. Furthermore, sustainable practices and new techniques, with modern equipment, are in stark contrast to their established neighbours — the literal anthesis to their rigid, high-end counterparts. A modern offering from such a historical dynasty of wine region.
Château Grimont Cadillac Côtes De Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France, 13.5%, 2019, €16.95 (O’Briens) (Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot): This wine is a brilliant example of what modern affordable Bordeaux has to offer. It is silky on the palate, with ripe dark lack berries and just a whiff of smoke on the finish. This is such an approachable wine with fine tannins and an impressive length. A very quaffable drop for your midweek lamb chops.
Chateau Fongabon, Pesseguin, Saint Emillion, Right Bank, Bordeaux, France, 14.5% €20.40 (Wines Direct): Saint Emillion is one of the most popular and long-loved regions for Irish wine drinkers. The use of predominantly Merlot is most likely the reason why. These wines are soft, plummy and dense. This wine fills your mouth with flavours of dark plums, damsons, vanilla and a soft touch of cedar wood. Fongabon dates back to the 17th century, however this winery has brought its wines into a modern sphere, with a soft fruit driven style.
Chateau Lynch Bages, Echo de Lynch Bages, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France, 2018, 14% €84.95 (Wineonline, Baggot St Wines, Nude Wine Co): Thomas Lynch was an Irish port worker whose family originally owned this estate. This 5th growth is the quintessential example of how the classification system is failing some Chateaus. This may be a 5th growth, but truly it deserves at least a 3rd if not 2nd growth classification. Its owner Jean Michel Cazes has elevated the quality and dynamism of this estate to world class levels. Being the incredible brand ambassador that he is, he even promised to fly an infamous 1985 Lynch Bages to the moon once. And to be fair to this estate, the juice really does reflect the price in the bottle. This particular wine is a second wine to the Chateau, yet is incredibly well crafted. “Echo” is chiefly made from the property’s youngest vines. It is characterised by its soft tannins, a light and smooth oakiness, a silky texture in the mouth and a nice complexity. It differs from the first wine of Lynch-Bages by a slightly higher proportion of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Ideal for a very special occasion.
Brigid O’Hora
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